Most homeowners file one or two roof insurance claims in their lifetime. Adjusters handle dozens a week. That asymmetry is why claims get underpaid, not usually through bad faith, but because the homeowner doesn't know what they're entitled to, what to document, or what to push back on.
If a storm just hit your roof, here's the playbook.
First 48 hours: stop the bleeding, document everything
Your policy requires you to mitigate further damage. That means: if there's an active leak, tarp it. Get a tarp on the roof or buckets under the leak inside, and save every receipt. Insurance will reimburse reasonable emergency mitigation costs as part of the claim.
Before anyone touches the roof, document the damage as it stands:
- Wide photos of all four sides of the house showing the roof line
- Close-ups of every damaged area: missing shingles, dented flashing, damaged gutters, broken siding, fallen branches
- Interior photos of every water-stained ceiling, wall, or item (furniture, electronics, drywall)
- A video walkthrough (narrated, time-stamped on your phone) of the entire affected area
- The date and time of the storm, plus any local news links confirming hail size or wind speed in your area
If you have to tarp before the adjuster comes (which is common, since adjusters can be days out), photograph what's under the tarp before you cover it. Photos of damage already covered are worth less to an adjuster than photos taken in daylight, before mitigation.
Read your policy before you file
Two terms you need to understand:
- ACV vs. RCV: Actual Cash Value pays you depreciated value of your roof. Replacement Cost Value pays you what it costs to actually replace it today. RCV policies typically pay in two stages: the ACV amount upfront, then the "recoverable depreciation" once you prove the work was completed. Always confirm which you have.
- Deductible: usually $1,000–$2,500 on standard policies, but many NJ policies have a separate "wind/hail" deductible that's 1–5% of your dwelling coverage. On a $500k policy, that's a $5,000–$25,000 deductible, a huge surprise if you didn't know.
Also check exclusions. Cosmetic-only damage, pre-existing wear, and lack of maintenance are common denial reasons. If your roof is 22 years old, expect a fight.
File promptly, and don't lowball your own estimate
When you file, describe the scope generally ("wind damage to roof, gutters, and siding from [date] storm") rather than estimating dollars. The adjuster will set the number. Don't anchor them low by guessing.
Get a roofer on site before the adjuster
This is the single highest-leverage move you can make. A qualified local roofer can:
- Identify damage the adjuster might miss (lifted shingles that haven't blown off yet, bruised mats from hail that aren't visible from the ground, compromised seals)
- Provide a written, line-itemized estimate in Xactimate format, the same software insurance companies use to calculate claims
- Be present during the adjuster's inspection to walk the roof together and flag items in real time
- Negotiate supplements directly with the adjuster if items were missed
A homeowner with a Xactimate-format estimate in hand and a roofer on the roof during inspection typically gets a settlement 30–60% higher than one who lets the adjuster work alone.
Don't accept the first offer if it's short
Adjuster reports often miss items: drip edge, ice & water shield, code-required upgrades, disposal, permits. If your roofer's estimate exceeds the settlement, the roofer can file a supplement directly with the carrier, item by item, with photos and pricing justification. Most carriers honor reasonable supplements; they just don't volunteer them.
Red flags: storm chasers and contracts to avoid
- Anyone who knocks on your door after a storm: legitimate local roofers don't cold-call neighborhoods. The "storm chaser" model is a national pattern.
- "We'll waive your deductible": this is insurance fraud in NJ. You can be on the hook even if the roofer offered it.
- Assignment of Benefits (AOB) contracts: these sign your claim payments over to the contractor and remove your control. Cross this clause out or refuse to sign.
- Pressure to sign before the adjuster has even visited: no reputable roofer needs you signed up before the carrier's decision.
- No NJ HIC registration number on the contract: required by state law.
What insurance generally won't cover
- Wear and tear, age, or lack of maintenance: these are not "sudden and accidental" losses
- Cosmetic-only hail damage on metal roofs and gutters (depending on your policy's cosmetic exclusion)
- Damage from leaks that have been ongoing: if you knew about a leak and didn't fix it, subsequent damage may be excluded
- Mold that develops weeks after a covered leak: many policies cap mold coverage at $5k–$10k
The biggest single takeaway: get a local, reputable roofer on your property before the adjuster shows up, with a written estimate in hand. That one step pays for itself many times over on almost every claim.
